What Is Wagyu? History, Grades & a Guide to Sukiyaki

What is Wagyu?

In Japan, Wagyu refers to four cattle breeds and crosses among those breeds: Japanese Black (黒毛和種), Japanese Brown (褐毛和種), Japanese Shorthorn (日本短角種), and Japanese Polled (無角和種). It is a more specific category than “beef from Japan.” MAFF’s breed guide explains this distinction.

Japanese Black is especially associated with marbling, but the four breeds are not interchangeable. Japanese Brown has strong connections with Kumamoto and Kochi; Japanese Shorthorn with northern Japan; and Japanese Polled with Yamaguchi. This diversity is one reason a single photograph cannot explain all Wagyu.

Kokusan-gyu, or domestic Japanese beef, describes origin rather than a Wagyu breed. It can include dairy cattle and dairy–beef crosses. Japan’s National Livestock Breeding Center distinguishes that broader category from its guidance for Wagyu labeling, which requires eligible cattle born and raised in Japan and verifiable breed and origin records. When comparing Japanese Wagyu with an overseas Wagyu product, ask about both origin and breeding; do not assume identical labeling rules across countries. Read the NLBC explanation.

From working cattle to a dining specialty

Modern Wagyu developed over generations. Cattle in Japan long served agriculture and transport. Following the Meiji Restoration of 1868, imported breeds were crossed with local cattle, followed by selection suited to Japanese conditions. From around the mid-1950s, farm mechanization and growing beef demand helped shift the emphasis toward specialized beef production. Today’s Wagyu is the result of that continuing development, rather than an unchanged ancient product.

Breed geography and historical background: MAFF’s overview of Wagyu improvement and genetic resources, April 2025, printed pages 3 and 5.

How to read A5, marbling and regional brands

The lowest of the four quality assessments determines the final quality number. Grade 5 requires marbling in the BMS 8–12 range as well as the other quality criteria, so A5 does not automatically mean BMS 12. The grading system also applies beyond Wagyu: the grade alone does not establish breed or a certified regional brand. Source: Japan Meat Grading Association.

For choosing dinner, I would read the grade alongside the cut, portion and preparation. A highly marbled piece may suit a few rich bites; your preferred meal may call for a different balance. A carcass grade cannot tell you how well the restaurant cooks it or how much richness you personally enjoy.

Kobe is a brand, not a fifth breed

Kobe Beef is a certified product from qualifying Tajima cattle in Hyogo. Its official rules include production and certification requirements, yield grade A or B, meat quality 4 or higher, and BMS 6 or higher. That means Kobe is not synonymous with A5, and A5 beef from somewhere else is not automatically Kobe. When a restaurant names a regional brand, look for that brand’s own definition and provenance. Source: Kobe Beef Marketing & Distribution Promotion Association.

Sukiyaki: a classic way to enjoy Wagyu

Sukiyaki brings thin slices of beef together with vegetables and other ingredients in a sweet–savory seasoning. Wagyu is a well-established premium choice: Ningyocho Imahan, for example, describes using mainly Japanese Black female cattle and slicing the meat specifically for the dish. But sukiyaki is a preparation, not a breed label. A menu that says only “sukiyaki” does not confirm Wagyu, A5 or a particular brand.

How beef hot pots became part of Japanese dining

MAFF traces Tokyo’s enthusiasm for gyūnabe, or beef hot pot, to the opening of Yokohama and the Meiji period. Early versions often used miso; soy-based seasoning developed later. Its account also connects the spread of the name “sukiyaki” in Tokyo with the period after the 1923 Great Kantō Earthquake. The familiar dish grew through changing tastes and regional practices, rather than one simple national invention date. Source: MAFF’s Tokyo sukiyaki history.

What arrives at the table

Expect thinly sliced beef, with some combination of negi, mushrooms, shungiku greens, tofu and shirataki noodles. The ingredients vary by season and house style. Warishita is the seasoning liquid, typically combining soy sauce and sweetness with mirin and/or sake, sometimes diluted with water or dashi. It is not one universal recipe. Kikkoman’s sukiyaki recipe gives a useful example of the ingredients and seasoning.

Kanto and Kansai: useful tendencies, with exceptions

The usual comparison is that Kanto-style sukiyaki starts with prepared warishita, while Kansai-style cooking begins by searing the beef and seasoning it in the pan. Kikkoman’s regional comparison explains these approaches. They are helpful starting points, not rigid rules: MAFF notes restaurants in Gunma that sear first, and Kyoto’s Moritaya uses warishita after searing. Follow the restaurant’s own sequence.

Examples of variation: MAFF’s Gunma sukiyaki guide and Moritaya’s serving instructions.

Five things to know before ordering

1. Read the beef description. If Wagyu is the reason for your visit, confirm its origin or brand, the cut, and the amount of meat included. Check whether the quoted price covers a whole course or just the sukiyaki.
2. Ask who cooks. Some restaurants cook and portion the meal for you; others let guests cook. Imahan describes both arrangements, so even a specialist’s service can vary by location.
3. Cook in manageable rounds. Follow the house instructions and avoid leaving thin beef simmering while you eat everything else. Moritaya’s method adds an amount of vegetables and other ingredients to eat, then repeats with more beef.
4. Egg is optional. Beaten raw egg is a familiar dipping accompaniment, but MAFF’s Gunma recipe expressly makes it optional. You can ask to enjoy the meal without it.
5. Check the finish and extras. Rice or udon may round out the meal, and additional meat may cost extra. Confirm what your particular course includes before ordering more.

Dining practices: Imahan’s sukiyaki introduction, Imahan’s cooking and finishing suggestions, Moritaya’s method, and MAFF’s Gunma recipe. Portion and price checks are my practical ordering advice.

Wagyu and sukiyaki in my restaurant stories

These links connect the guide to meals already covered on the blog. Each restaurant review opens with a practical evaluation of spending per person, reservation difficulty, station access and rarity. The dishes below describe those recorded visits; menus can change.

For another menu reference, my Takayouji Yokohama lunch review mentions a Wagyu steak set. The photographed lunch was a different set, so this is a menu lead rather than a Wagyu tasting report; check the current offering before visiting.